Western Montana

Perhaps no landmark is more closely associated with the City of Missoula than the big, white, concrete “M” on the side of Mount Sentinel. This highly visible and recognizable icon of the University of Montana stands 125 feet tall and 100 feet wide, and sits 620 feet above the heads of new freshmen. A well-used trail leads to the “M,” and hiking to the “M” has, for years, been a tradition for incoming university freshmen and for visitors to Missoula as well. For those who find the hike to be an exhilarating experience there will be future visits; for those who find the mountain too demanding, at least they will have memories of the incredible view.

My eight-year-old granddaughter, Madison, had been after me to take her to the “M,” so today was the big day. Although I’d hiked the trail many times, for Madison this was a first, and she was pretty excited. We began our trip by finding a parking spot in the lot just off Campus Drive behind the football stadium at the trailhead. The University reserves a number of free spots for M Trail hikers and we were lucky enough to get the last spot. There is also a metered lot just a block away. I will describe how you find this spot a little later, but you can pretty much see the M from anywhere in the city. Newcomers quickly learn to orient themselves by the big M on the side of the mountain.

Before starting up the trail we needed to pack up the cameras and water bottles, jackets too, sunscreen for the sensitive girly skin, and make a quick stop at the handy restroom right at the trailhead. We had some cloud cover, and it was springtime, so any wind and rain would be cold. (It seems to me that rain water in Montana is ALWAYS cold, no matter what time of year.)

We were looking up at thirteen trail switchbacks to the M. Some segments of the trail are short and steep; some are long but not quite so steep. Fortunately, there are resting benches at switchbacks #5 and #11. I know that if it has been raining the trail will have water rivulets and slippery spots. Good hiking shoes are needed in bad weather or winter time; but I have seen silly teenagers in flip flops too. You have to watch your step, though, regardless of the weather. The trail is mostly packed earth with some loose gravel and a few boulders. When you want to enjoy the view, it is best to stop rather than tripping.

We took our time and stopped frequently to rest and shoot photos. (You really don’t have to go very far up the trail to have fantastic views of the campus, the city, the valleys and the distant mountain peaks which have snow on the tippy tops almost all year.) Our excitement mounted when we saw the M just one more leg above us. It’s so great to share an experience with a young person for the first time—like seeing it all through her eyes.

From the top of the M itself we could see for miles. Later in the spring the valley would be lush and green—Missoula is known as the Garden City—and in autumn, my favorite time, colorful foliage is on display.The trail does continue all the way up to the top of Mount Sentinel, but that’s another 1200 foot climb to 5158 feet above sea level! Perhaps on another day.

We had taken perhaps 40 minutes to reach the M and our trip down was about 20 minutes. At a full-speed walk, an adult can make the trip up in 15 minutes and carefully jog down in about ten. We had a great time and a great day together. As we headed back down, Madison talked eagerly about an ice cream cone. I got to hold her hand most of the way.

The best way to reach the trailhead is via Campus Drive, which you access right next to the football stadium. If you find yourself on Higgins Avenue (the main north-south street), cross the Clark Fork River Bridge heading south and then turn left (east) at Beckwith Avenue. Beckwith becomes Campus Drive after about eight blocks.

One final note: during the height of the fire season the M Trail may be closed, at least in the afternoons. The gate will be locked at the trailhead so you will know.

Here are some additional photos of us, the trail and the University of Montana campus: